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What Survived: Inti Raymi and Qoyllur Riti

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What Survived: Inti Raymi and Qoyllur Riti

After 1533 the Dominicans built their church and convent directly on the Qorikancha, keeping the Inca masonry as a foundation. The royal mummies were hunted down and removed to Lima, and campaigns to extirpate idolatry pursued the huacas across the southern Andes through the following century, prompting movements of refusal such as the Taki Onqoy of the 1560s, in which preachers announced that the old huacas were returning to drive out the invaders. The earthquake of 1650 and again that of 1950 brought down colonial walls and left the Inca stonework standing, a fact local memory has never treated as accidental.

What survived did so inside Catholic forms. The Corpus Christi procession of Cusco carries fifteen saints and virgins through the streets from the outlying parishes, each with its own following, in a pattern that colonial observers already compared to the carrying of the mummies. Inti Raymi, the June solstice festival of the sun, was suppressed and then reconstructed in 1944 as a staged pageant at Sacsayhuaman above the city, performed in Quechua and now a fixture of the civic year.

The pilgrimage of Qoyllur Riti climbs to a glacier at nearly five thousand metres before Corpus Christi, drawing tens of thousands. Its focus is a painted image of Christ on a rock, approached by nations of dancers from the surrounding provinces, and policed by masked ukukus who once cut ice from the glacier to carry home. It was inscribed on the UNESCO intangible heritage list in 2011, and the ice cutting has been curtailed as the glacier retreats.

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