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The Line Between Christendoms, and the Shoes on the Bank

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The Line Between Christendoms, and the Shoes on the Bank

The Danube's later religious history is a history of boundaries drawn along it and armies moving up and down it.

Ottoman expansion into Europe followed the river valley, and the two sieges of Vienna, in 1529 and 1683, were fought at the point where it enters the German lands. The relief of the second was preached as a Christian undertaking and is still commemorated as such, and the Habsburg reconquest of Hungary that followed brought a Catholic restoration to territory that had been substantially Protestant, which is why the religious map of the middle Danube looks the way it does.

Downstream the river separated Catholic and Orthodox populations for centuries, and the modern states along it inherited that division: Austria and Hungary Catholic, Serbia, Bulgaria and Romania Orthodox, with Muslim communities remaining from the Ottoman period throughout.

The twentieth century added something else. In the winter of 1944 and 1945, members of the Arrow Cross militia took Jews from the Budapest ghetto to the embankment, ordered them to remove their shoes, shot them and let the river carry the bodies away. A memorial installed in 2005 consists of sixty pairs of iron shoes on the stone edge, in the styles of the period, arranged as though just stepped out of. It is among the least rhetorical Holocaust memorials in Europe and one of the most visited.

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