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Char Dham, Sapta Puri, and the Argument Under the Water

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Char Dham, Sapta Puri, and the Argument Under the Water

Dwarka holds two places in the geography of Hindu pilgrimage at once. It is one of the four dhams, the abodes at the compass points of the subcontinent that a pilgrim ideally visits in a single circuit with Badrinath in the north, Puri in the east and Rameswaram in the south, an arrangement traditionally credited to Shankara. It is also one of the seven cities said to grant liberation to those who die in them. A monastery at Dwarka is counted among the four seats attributed to Shankara, and its head carries the title of Shankaracharya, so the town is a node of institutional authority as well as of devotion.

Since the 1960s the coast has also been the site of an archaeological argument. Underwater survey off Dwarka and Bet Dwarka has recorded stone structures, anchors and pottery, and the excavator who directed much of the work identified them with the submerged city of the epic. Other archaeologists read the same material as the remains of a historical port of far more recent date, reused stone or natural formation, and object that dating submerged deposits disturbed by currents is extremely difficult.

The atlas records the disagreement rather than resolving it. That a real settlement stood on this coast is not in doubt; that it is the Dvaraka of the Mahabharata is a claim archaeology has not established, and the pilgrimage does not depend on the answer.

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