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The Rainbow, and the Root That Fixes a Scent

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The Rainbow, and the Root That Fixes a Scent

The iris takes its name from Iris, the Greek goddess of the rainbow and messenger of the gods, named in Hesiod, an apt namesake for a flower that comes in the full spread of colours. Beyond the bloom, the plant's quiet economic importance lies underground: orris root, the dried rhizome of certain irises, develops a violet-like scent as it ages and is a prized fixative in perfumery, holding and steadying other fragrances, and it has been used to scent linen and powder for centuries. Culpeper places the flower-de-luce, the iris, under the Moon.

Orris root's perfumery value, noted above, comes at real cost: the rhizomes must be dried and cured for up to three years before they develop their violet-like scent, making orris one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery by weight, and it is a key ingredient in classic formulations including Chanel No. 5, valued by perfumers less for its own scent than for its power to fix and extend the other fragrances blended with it. Florence's own civic emblem is the iris: the city's fleur-de-lis has stood for the flower since medieval times, and the specific iris grown around Florence and cured for orris root, Iris florentina, along with the closely related Iris germanica and Iris pallida grown across Tuscany, gives the root trade its Florentine name.

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