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One Hundred Twenty Five Chapters Painted Where Monks Would Walk

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One Hundred Twenty Five Chapters Painted Where Monks Would Walk

A hallway painted floor to near ceiling with a single continuous story, running for nearly two hundred and seventy seven linear feet, sounds like a modern museum installation. At Puntsok Ling Monastery in central Tibet, that description fits a mural finished roughly four hundred years ago, spread across fifteen panels along the external ambulatory of the monastery's second floor.

The scale is not decoration for its own sake. An ambulatory is a walking path, built into the architecture of a monastery specifically so that monks could circle a sacred space in meditation or ritual practice. Stretching the Buddha's life across a hundred and twenty five chapters along that exact route turns a devotional walk into something closer to reading a very long book one step at a time, each panel a passage a monk would pass slowly rather than glimpse all at once.

The mural's commissioner, the Jonang scholar Taranatha, built his design around that architecture on purpose, tracing the Buddha's story from his descent from Tushita Heaven through his death, by way of his teachings, his travels and his encounters with gods, demons, merchants and ordinary people across northern India. Photographed in place in 2011 by the art historians who later published the fullest account of it, the mural still does today what it was built to do in the seventeenth century, turning a walk down a hallway into an education in exactly the story the monastery's own most famous resident thought mattered most to tell.

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Sources
Quintman and Schaeffer, "A Monumental Life of the Buddha Mural" (Rubin Museum, Project Himalayan Art, 2023)
Andrew Quintman and Kurtis R. Schaeffer, Rubin Museum of Art, Project Himalayan Art, 2023View the Source
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