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The Maya City That Wrote Its Own History on the Walls

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The Maya City That Wrote Its Own History on the Walls

Palenque, set against forested hills in Chiapas, is admired for the refinement of its architecture and sculpture and for the unusually full dynastic record its inscriptions preserve.

A classic Maya kingdom

Palenque flourished in the Classic period, roughly the fifth to eighth centuries CE, as the capital of a kingdom the Maya called Lakamha. Its buildings are lighter and more elegant than the massive style of other Maya cities, with delicate roof-combs, mansard roofs and finely modelled stucco reliefs. Its hieroglyphic texts, carved on panels and tablets, record the names, accessions, wars and rituals of its kings in enough detail that scholars have reconstructed a long dynastic history, and the decipherment of Palenque's inscriptions was central to cracking Maya writing as a whole.

Pakal and the Temple of the Inscriptions

The city's greatest ruler was Kinich Janaab Pakal, who reigned for most of the seventh century. Beneath the Temple of the Inscriptions a hidden vaulted stairway, found in 1952, descended to his sealed tomb, where his body lay in a great limestone sarcophagus. Its carved lid shows the dead king at the moment of his fall into the underworld and rebirth as a maize deity along the world-tree, one of the most studied images in Maya art. The find demonstrated that Maya pyramids, like Egyptian ones, could be funerary monuments for named individuals.

Cosmology in stone and its afterlife

Palenque's art sets out a Maya cosmology of the world-tree, the underworld and the divine ancestry of kings with unusual clarity, making the site a primary window onto Classic Maya religion and kingship. Abandoned by around the ninth century and reclaimed by forest, it was gradually rediscovered from the eighteenth century onward. It is a World Heritage site; interpretation of its ancient religion is the work of archaeology, separate from the living traditions of the Maya peoples of the region today.

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