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The Hill-Girt Capital of Magadha

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The Hill-Girt Capital of Magadha

Rajgir lies in a valley enclosed by five hills, and the enclosure is the point: the older city was defended by a cyclopean wall of unmortared stone running for miles along the ridges, long stretches of which survive, and it served as the capital of Magadha through the reigns of Bimbisara and his son Ajatashatru before the seat moved north to Pataliputra. Both kings appear constantly in Buddhist and Jain narrative, Bimbisara as a patron and Ajatashatru as a parricide who later repents, and the two traditions tell overlapping stories about them with different endings.

The Buddha spent long periods there. Bimbisara gave him the Bamboo Grove on the edge of the town, the first property the monastic community held; the physician Jivaka's mango grove was another such gift; and Vulture Peak, a modest rock outcrop reached by a stone path up the hillside, is the setting the discourses name more often than any place except Shravasti. Mahavira passed fourteen rainy seasons in the same valley, and the Jain temples on the surrounding hills are still in use.

The hot springs at the foot of Vaibhara hill have been bathed in continuously for as long as the place has been described at all. Ajatashatru is credited in Buddhist sources with building the wall, and the same sources have him consulting the Buddha about attacking the Vajjis, which places the fortification and the campaign in one narrative. Archaeology confirms the wall and a long occupation but cannot date either to a reign, so the story and the stones agree in outline and cannot be matched in detail.

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