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An Island That Stayed Hindu

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An Island That Stayed Hindu

Bali is the Indonesian island whose population remained Hindu when Java turned to Islam, and its tradition, Agama Hindu Dharma, is not a survival of Indian religion so much as a distinct system built from Indian materials.

Ritual there is organised around keeping the world in balance between the seen and the unseen, sekala and niskala, and the practical work of that is offering. Small palm-leaf trays of rice, flowers and incense are placed at house shrines, crossroads, workshops and vehicles daily, and larger ceremonies escalate through village, regional and island-wide scales. Every household compound has a shrine in its northeast corner, every village has three temples with defined functions, and membership of a village temple congregation is a civic fact as much as a religious one.

The calendar drives everything. Two systems run at once, a lunar-solar one and a two hundred and ten day cycle of intersecting weeks, and temple anniversaries fall on the latter, which is why a Balinese year contains an extraordinary density of ceremonies.

Rice is inseparable from the ritual order. Irrigation is managed by cooperative associations, the subak, whose water distribution decisions are taken at water temples and which combine engineering, farming and worship in one institution. Priests work from Sanskrit and Old Javanese texts, and the offerings that reach the public eye are made largely by women.

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